Rethymno Town

Brief History

Though traces of habitation around Rethymno date back to the Minoan period, the city’s history properly begins in the Classical and Hellenistic eras. During this period, the city was known as Rithymna and was briefly powerful enough to mint its own coinage. However, it quickly fell into obscurity, spending most of its history in the background.
Rethymno only became an important city in Crete once the Venetians took control of the island, who built a port at Rithymna to serve as a waypoint between Chania and Chandax (modern-day Heraklion). The city grew in the 16th century, with its population reaching 10 thousand inhabitants, at a rate of 3 Greeks for every Venetian. Most of the Old Town, including its churches, the Rimondi Fountain, and the Loggia date to this era. This period also saw the development of Rethymno’s fortifications, due to successive Ottoman raids. A wall was built on the southern edge of the city in 1540 and the Fortezza was built on Palaikastro Hill in 1573.

Rethymno was turned over to the Ottomans in 1646, very early during the Cretan War, with little resistance. Most of the inhabitants fled to Venice or the hinterlands, with only 1500 Greeks remaining. The Ottomans were quick to work on the city of Rethymno, with many churches being converted to mosques, as well as new mosques being constructed.
Rethymno was mostly peaceful during the years that followed, largely due to the relatively small Greek population. During the heights of Crete’s rebellious activities, Rethymno, and especially the Fortezza, would serve as a stronghold for the Ottomans, keeping the Muslim population of the city safe.

Between 1913 and 1923, the majority of Crete’s Muslims fled the island, with Greeks from Asia Minor taking their place. It is estimated that Rethymno welcomed upwards of 6000 refugees.
Rethymno was one of the cities targeted by the Germans in the Battle of Crete in 1941. During the battle, Rethymno was heavily bombed, and the subsequent occupation impoverished the city. Rethymno was liberated from the Axis occupation on October 13, 1944.
Following World War II, Rethymno gradually started developing once more, surpassing 10 thousand inhabitants for the first time in 300 years. This development intensified in the 1970s, and the city’s population doubled in fewer than 30 years, forming most of the New Town.

Sights

Rethymno is a city whose streets combine modern architecture with Venetian fortifications, and Ottoman Mosques, forming a tapestry of differing periods and styles that is unlike any other in Greece.

Fortifications

Fortezza: Built in 1573, this enormous castle is the most famous building in Rethymno, and is one of the best-preserved examples of Venetian military architecture in Greece.

Porta Guora: The only remaining trace of the city’s old walls, built in 1540, this was the main way into the city. These days it has been integrated into the surrounding urban architecture, as it bridges the walls of two surrounding houses on Ethnikis Antistaseos Street.

Mosques

Ibrahim Han Mosque: Situated inside the Fortezza, this was originally a church consecrated to St. Nicholas but was converted into the city’s first mosque once the Ottomans took over in 1646. These days it is used as an exhibition center.

Neradje Mosque: Another church that was converted into a mosque, this building was adorned with a minaret in 1890, which still stands today and is one of Rethymno’s skyline’s most recognizable pieces. Today it functions as a conservatory.

Rethymno is home to many more mosques and in fact has one of the highest concentrations of mosques, relative to its population, in Greece. It is naturally also home to many churches, such as the imposing Church of the Four Martyrs.

Municipal Garden

Built in 1925, the Municipal Garden is Rethymno’s largest park, and one of the largest in Crete, measuring almost 25 thousand square meters. This location, bridging the Old and New Towns, is the site of the old Muslim cemetery, which was converted into a park when the city’s Muslims fled to Asia Minor, to prevent it from being built over by secular buildings. It serves as the “lung” of Rethymno’s and provides a popular spot for an afternoon break in the shade.
At its center stands a large circular fountain, with smaller traditional fountains dispersed throughout, as well. Its paved paths are lined with busts of important people in the city’s history, while the park has many signs indicating rare and uncommon species of flora, courtesy of the University of Rethymno.

Museums

Archaeological Museum: This museum, temporarily housed in the old catholic church of Saint Francis, this museum holds items from all over Rethymno Prefecture, with the earliest dating to the Stone Age and the latest to the Venetian period. Some of the most important finds in Rethymno are the Acheulean handaxes found near the village of Plakias, which date to 130 thousand years ago and have caused a reexamination of the history of seafaring.

Historical and Folklore Museum: As traditional occupations fade away in Crete, this museum preserves their memories for the generations to come. A large exhibit displaying artifacts related to weaving, embroidery, basket and ceramic production, old-timey agriculture and breadmaking, as well as metallurgy and many other occupations lost to time.

Ecclesiastical Museum: Housed in the church of the Presentation of Mary, the city’s old cathedral, this museum exhibits artifacts related to the history of the Orthodox rite in Rethymno, especially during the Ottoman period, when Muslims were the city’s majority. Many icons, golden relics, cassocks, as well as various, more unique items are on display there.

Rethymno is home to an abundance of museums beyond those mentioned above, such as the Museum of the Cretan Lyra, the Contemporary Art Gallery, and the Paleontological Museum, housed at the Veli Pasha mosque.

Other sights

Rimondi Fountain: An elaborate construction, dating to 1626, and named after the rector of Rethymno at the time, this fountain still spouts water out of its three nozzles today and preserves much of the elegant architecture employed in its construction.

Venetian Loggia: An exceptional example of Venetian architecture, this building served as the main meeting point of the nobles back in the day, where matters of political and economic importance were discussed. When the Ottomans took over, it was one of many buildings converted to a mosque, however its architecture was largely unaltered. Having previously hosted the archaeological museum, this building is now home to a branch of the Ministry of Culture’s Fund of Archaeological Proceeds, where high-quality replicas of ancient finds are available for sale.

Beaches

Rethymno has an extensive coastline along 3 sides of its Old Town, and all along the New Town as well, which has formed a fair number of beaches. The main beach of the city is Rethymno Βeach, situated directly to the east of the port. It is a well-developed, highly organized beach, which continues on to Perivolia, Misiria, Platanias, and Adele beaches to form the western half of a 13-kilometer-long beachfront where loggerhead turtles often lay their eggs.
To the west of the Old Town lies the peculiar beach of Koumbes. It is a sandy beach with plenty of large boulders that add to the scenery but do not inhibit swimming. This beach stands out for its view of the Fortezza.

There are many more beaches for those willing to drive along the coast until they find the right one, mainly to the northeast. The popular resort of Bali stands out here, about 30 minutes away by car.

Restaurants and Nightlife

Restaurants

The vast majority of Rethymno’s restaurants are situated in the Old Town, although plenty of options are also available along the coast in the suburbs. Many tavernas can be found here, but the city also plays host to multiple Italian restaurants, burger houses, and grills. Budget options aren’t hard to come across, either, as prices often aim to accommodate the city’s student population.

Cafes and Nightlife

Cafes are very popular in Rethymno and are available throughout the city, be it in the Old Town, on the promenade, or even in the Municipal Garden. Options abound, as both traditional kafeneia and modern cafeterias can be found, with students often popping in to pick up a coffee on their way to university

Bars are almost exclusively found in the Old Town, specifically in its eastern half, with many situated on the promenade between the two piers of the port, providing a wonderful view of palm trees and the sea, while those located further inland grace the city’s nightlife with a unique Venetian-themed environment.

Hotels

Accommodations of all kinds can be found in Rethymno, with many luxurious apartments available in the Old Town and along the shoreline. Rethymno’s hotels are generally more high-end, but budget-friendly options can be found, especially in the suburbs.

Ways to get around

Rethymno is an easy city to get around in. Due to the city’s growth being primarily in an easterly direction, it has a somewhat elongated shape that allows it to be serviced by just one main axis. This axis passes through Koumbes in the west, along the southern edge of the Old Town, and then through the eastern suburbs. Traffic is generally good here, although the section near the Old Town can get congested during rush hour. An alternative route circumnavigates the Old Town by sticking to the shoreline and carries on until Perivolia. This area of Rethymno is very walkable, and large parking lots can be found at the Port, the Fortezza and the football stadium in the west, where drivers can leave their cars.

Due to Rethymno’s size and layout, it is only served by a single bus line. This line connects the suburb of Perivolia in the east through to the center of Rethymno and out west to the settlement of Gallos, following the main road axis of the city. Buses run every 20 minutes throughout the week and tickets cost €1.40.

A mode of transport that is suggested for Rethymno is the bicycle. Rethymno has been certified as a bike-friendly city, which makes for a unique experience.